© David W Wooddell, April 21, 2012
Some years ago I fell in love with dark chocolate. On a visit to Paris in the early 90’s, I discovered extra-fine dark chocolate normally used in cooking. It was inexpensive, and I was eating it by the half-pound. Boy howdy, let me tell you that such chocolate consumed regularly was a means of near-hallucination. I drank coffee back then, too, and smoked cigarettes, a deadly triple combination of habits I later gave up on doctor’s orders. Now I just drink a bit of coffee of a morning and try not to eat more than one chocolate candy at a time. Moderation is best for intended longevity.
Bag of Cacao, Bonampak Murals, Chiapas, Mexico, circa 790CE
Infrared photograph, © David W Wooddell
Chocolate, in the form of cocoa derived from the cacao bean has been with us for a long time. Skilled at fine-tuning plants for agriculture, the Maya may have perfected Theobroma cacao: “naturally selecting prized cultivars for their hi-flavor, bringing forth the finest cacáo ever cultivated on Earth.” The Maya also perfected the pineapple from the bromiliad plant by crossbreeding strains of plants selectively to produce the fruit they desired.
They probably helped give us maize, too. The dates in the sacred Maya text Popul Vhu indicate it was around 7900 BCE when maize was created. The Maya venerate corn as the source of life, it is central to the creation myth in illustrations, including at Bonampak. They also mixed maize with cacao for a strong, hearty drink.
So maybe (am I reaching here?) the Maya turned some cacao into an un-sweetened chocolate spread, kind of an ancient version of Nutella: The Original Hazelnut Spread®? Certainly, they had no shortage of nut trees in that part of the world, going as far south as the Amazon.
But that is sheer speculation.
What seems to be known is the Maya consumed hot chocolate without sugar in it, making the beverage powerfully bitter and strong. (Kind of like that unsweetened extra-fine chocolate I was eating in Paris). It became the hit in Paris after the Spanish introduced cocoa to Europe, along with another new world native fruit, the tomato (Columbus brought the tomato back on the first voyage),
Tea was still the thing at the time, but coffee (Coffea arabica) would soon appear in Europe as beverage of choice, brought to the west from Arabia, perhaps via trade with India and the east, or directly as has been documented elsewhere in history. It was not long until the appearance of coffee houses in sixteenth century Europe. Tobacco would arrive from the new world, also courtesy of the Spanish in 1518, and then all of Europe would be addicted to the same stuff that had me in its grips during that trip to Paris. (Andorfer, 15; Higman, 152; Hodge, vol. 4, 768)
At Bonampak, Chiapas, in one of the famous three rooms of painted pre-Hispanic Mayan murals, cacao appears in a royal scene in which a bag full of the commodity is evidently the city’s riches, perhaps the very riches on which the royal family was founded. Currency is what you make it, anything can be used as a means of exchange. Gold was important, but cacao was wealth! (Coe, 131)
Photographing the Bonampak Murals in black and white infrared film was a lot better than chocolate: it meant that we could see through the age of time, through pigments used to paint the murals, and down through the layers to the red under-drawing, as well as to define the black outlines of important figures, a method the Maya artist used to emphasize the important players in a scene. In this scene at Bonampak, the cacao was one of the important elements, clearly labeled and impressive.
The Maya used various substances to find the vision serpent, which was their way of communing with spirits, ancestors, gods and demons. It is possible that they made strong solutions of fermented cacao and used them in enema solutions. Such practice gave a short trip to the cosmic experience they sought, and almost certainly to the sacred thunderjar. (Coe, 181)
This give new meaning to the long-standing question: Where did the ancient Maya go?
— David W Wooddell
Sources:
“A Concise History of Cacao” http://www.c-spot.com/atlas/historical-timeline/
Andorfer, T. The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Coffee and Tea, Penguin, 2006
Coe, M. The Maya 5th Ed. Thames & Hudson, 1993, p. 131, 180
Higman, B.W. How Food Made History, John Wiley & Sons, 2004
Hodge, F.W. Handbook of American Indians North of Mexico, Volume 4, Smithsonian Institution





































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